Why Is Anthony Vaccarello Really Leaving Saint Laurent?

After a decade dressing Hollywood's A-listers and generating billions in sales, the designer is heading for the exit. Behind the split: declining revenue, $4,200 sneakers, and a clash with the boss.

Another seat in the fashion designer's seemingly endless game of musical chairs has just opened. After nearly a year of industry whispers, on October 9th Saint Laurent finally made it official: Anthony Vaccarello is leaving after a (mostly) successful decade as creative director.

Vaccarello had strong relationships with longtime stars Zoe Kravitz, Zoe Saldana, Hailey Bieber, Rose Blackpink, Chloé Sweeney, Madonna and Kaia Gerber. Just this week, Alexander Skarsgård wore one of his dreamy gold suits straight off the runway. And we hear Vaccarello is still committed to designing Kravitz's wedding dress for her wedding to Harry Styles — though, now that she's gone, she can't put the Saint Laurent name on it.

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For years, Vaccarello looked effortless, sporting bomber jackets, punky gowns, androgynous tuxedos, high heels, and knee-length lace skirts. Saint Laurent's sales hit $3.3 billion in 2023 — just before they start to decline in the opposite direction.

To understand why a seemingly untouched designer suddenly became expendable, follow the money—or the loss of it. Saint Laurent's sales fell 9 percent in 2024 and then another 6 percent last year, amid declining demand in Asia and a cooling approach to Vaccarello's rock-and-roll aesthetic and metallic fabrics.

But declining sales were only part of the problem. The real problem—and probably a big part of why Vaccarello headed for the doors—came from inside the building.

Vaccarello and Cédric Charbit, CEO of Saint Laurent, were at odds. Charbit — the former CEO of Kering's sister brand Balenciaga — helped then-designer Demena create cool sneakers and bags. He wanted Vaccarello to do the same—not the $4,200 Plexiglas shoes. But Vaccarello, like Hedi Slimane before him, is unmoved. He spent tons of money and had no plans to cut back. As Vogue puts it, Vaccarello is "as strong-willed as she is soft-spoken," resolutely unwilling to bow to trends or the growing democratization of fashion.

His successor? Saint Laurent says a name is imminent. But you better believe it's going to be someone Charbit can work with—and someone who has a track record of not only working on trends, but hard selling.

And suddenly there are many designers available for this work. Kering is starting to clean house, having already moved creative directors at Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, both Chanel and Celine found success under newer creative leadership under Matthew Blazey and Michael Ryder.

Designing a $4,200 pair of shoes isn't enough to be fashionable in your profession. You have to sell them too.